More about Kakadu

Interesting it is, definitely! The contrasts between wetlands which are mostly under water during the wet season, lush and green and still logged with water today as I travel through this area. Easy to see that crocodiles would love this environment with lots of wildlife that flock to the wetlands for breeding.


Wetlands at Yellow Waters, Kakadu Nat. Park

It is difficult to understand though, how absolutely stupid some fellow travelers put their lives on the line, fishing in shallow waters, standing knee deep in murky waters while casting their lines, totally oblivious to the fact, they are in croc country where crocs are the top of the food chain. They will also attack anything, regardless of size. Just because you can't see any, does not mean there are none in the vicinity. They can just drift up close and when they attack, it is usually at lightening speed. Chances to get away in time are usually slim...


Crocodile - waiting, perfectly still...

I am also impressed with Aboriginal Art, painted on rock walls, usually under overhangs where thay have been protected by the elements for thousands of years, some of course have been damaged by seepage of water over the years. In this context, the places of Ubirr and Noorlangie stand out, the latter also impressive because of the surrounding escarpment of giant rocks, unfortunately difficult to photograph from most places as you stand much too close to appreciate the sheer size of the range.

The worst about Kakadu are the small creatures that abound in the wetlands, Moskitos. Plenty of them wherever I travel, one of the people called them extremely "friendly". Despite a liberal application of Repellents, they will still find spots on your skin where they land to suck your blood. Plenty of spots to scratch afterwards.

Back in Darwin it is still surprising that there are vitually no Mossies or bush flies to bother you, yet still temperatures in the low 30s and high humidity, a cold glass of beer will have condensation running down the glass in minutes.


Looking across Fanny Bay, Darwin, on a receding tide.

Kakadu National Park

A mark left by the Rainbow Serpent when it created this country

Coming out of Litchfield, my next destination is Kakadu National Park which means I have to retrace my steps, drive toward Darwin to the turn-off to Kakadu. Its quite warm and actually quite humid. I run my aircon in my vehicle for most of the way to South Aligator where I call it a day. Connect to power and turn on my house-aircondition to keep cool. The landscape into Kakadu is quite similar to Litchfield, Savannah and scrub dotted with Termite Mounds of varying size, some only small, cone-shaped ones and also large mounds, 3-5 metres tall. Further toward the park there are also wide open flood plains, green and still carrying lots of wildlife, naturally large Saltwater Crocodiles are everpresent in these surroundings, warning posters to this effect are best to be taken seriously.

The campground at South Aligator Campground was quiet, only a few wallabies hopping around the lawn in the evening. A young school teacher who is on a camping holiday with her seven year old girl tells me how really stupid some people are behaving, some standing kneedeep in water while casting a fishing line, totally unaware that a large crocodile can easily grab them and pull them into the water without warning. Last year I watched a scene where a Croc took a wallaby from a distance of about six metres at lightening speed; the wallaby never had a chance to even react. It took the Croc half a second at most to cover the six metres, suddenly there was white water all around the Croc, the Wallaby suddenly missing from the shore

I leave the following morning to drive on about 80km to Ubirr to have another look at the scenery and the Aboriginal rock art.

Some Rock paintings at Ubirr

Quite a few people there, several tours in progress at this time of the morning. In passing I get some of the commentary about Aboriginal culture, what the drawings mean etc., from the respective tour guides.

A view from the plateau at Ubirr onto the wetlands

When I leave about two hours later, I drive to Jabiru, about 40km away. Its quite warm still, so I book into the local Caravan Park with a powered site.

A modern Visitor's Centre at Jabiru


This morning, driving out from Jabiru, I drive westward toward Nourlangie Rock, yet another site with a lot of Aboriginal Rock Art. The rock formations in this area are simply gigantic, colourful with many art sites along the rim on the valley floor.

A view of the escarpment at Nourlangie Rock


A Bad Spirit that kills women
The name "Nourlangie" is an anglicised version of the word "Nawurlandja" and refers only to a portion of the whole area. The higher parts of what is commonly known as "Nourlangie Rock" is known as "Burrunggui" by the Gun-djeihmi speakers who own this land. The lower area is known as "Anbangbang".

Darwin, Litchfield

New blossoms of Eucalypts dropped to the ground by foraging Cockatoos
Darwin is certainly worth a second look at. During my last visit about a year ago it all seemed to exhibit "Red-neck-town" characteristics, what with the V8 Races that were held at that time. Having taken a second look now, I can say its a busy and bustling city with lots of street cafes where you can sit, enjoy a nice meal with a cold beer or glass of wine. A nice re-build after the town was destroyed more than 30 years ago in "Cyclone Tracy". Lots of new housing developments, everything built with plenty of space in mind, well designed buildings not only in the city centre.

Just a few steps from the centre is the Deckchair Theatre close by the sea, which is exactly as the name implies, row upon row of deck chairs side by side, out in the open and much like a Drive-in Theatre of years gone by, without any loudspeakers that would go on your car window, only a large screen to project the movie onto. Drinks and nibbles are also available, for you to enjoy while watching your movie.

I am staying at a Caravan Park a bit on the perimeter, called Peel Point Village Resort, sounds a bit like high value but nice enough with good facilities, quiet at night which is good because its located not too far from the Airport.

After 3 days at Darwin I drive south again to go to Litchfield National Park taking in some of the sights I already saw last year, like Buley Rock Holes on the way in, which last year seemed to overflow with families and lots of screaming kids. Yesterday, despite arriving on a Thursday, there were still plenty of visitors and the parking area full to the brim by the time I park my Motorhome. After a stop, a wander-around and having a cup-of-tea, I drive on further into the Park to Wangi Falls and get a spot at the campground there, as last time I could not get in.

Wangi Falls are two waterfalls cascading into a small lake at the bottom of that rockface. The area also has a very nice hiking trail around the area, a walk through the tree tops of the rain forest and a good easy climb to the top of the waterfalls.

Wangi Falls and pool

Once you are above the tree tops, the vegetation changes to the usual sparse shrubs and grasses that can survive in the dry environment.


Dry vegetation above the rain forest


The creek flowing into the Falls

I really enjoy this walk, climbing to the top of the Falls and back down to the Lagoon at the bottom, only a few people seemingly making the effort.

Barkly Homestead, The Devils's Marbles, Banka Banka Station and Mataranka

Barkly Homestead is a Roadhouse directly on the Barkly Highway, the road that connects Queensland with the Northern Territory (NT). I remember it from last year's visit as a bit of a dust bowl, but because of recent rains in this area as well, its a lot greener now, quite a pleasant stay in fact, with helpful and friendly staff. I decide to treat myself to a Roast Dinner, letting me off the hook having to cook my own (as usual). It also turns out quite good, the can of beer to go with it though has a remarkable price of $5.30! Well, the roast was only $12.00 so I guess that the money has to be made from another source.


Sunrise over Barkly Homestead

The following morning I continue on to Tennant Creek, a rather long straight roud with maybe five or six bends in the road over 187km until I get to Three Ways, where the Barkly meets the Stuart Highway, which connects Alice Springs to the south, with Darwin in the north.
When I drove down this road last year I found the drive really boring and can only put it down to the fact that all was dry and drab looking at that time. Again, after much rain in the area the ground was covered with dry, straw cloured grass which also reflects the light giving off a soft light that does look a lot more interesting. So, coming down this road again, the only thing I could interpret as being boring was only the sheer endless straight line of the Highway ahead of me.

I re-fuel at Tennant Creek(about 35 cents/litre cheaper than at Barkly Station), buy a few supplies at the store and continue on south to the Devil's Marbles about 110km away. Yes, its a dusty kind of place but is well kept and looked after by the Park Rangers.

The large Granite Boulders, seemingly strewn randomly across the landscape are most picturesque, the various colours and shapes providing a sheer endless kaleidoscope of images for the camera. I stay for two nights, the nominal Park Fee of $3.30 per person per night does not break the Bank either.










Various Views of "The Devil's Marbles"

I drive north again, through Tennant Creek with rather a large population of Aboriginals lying or sitting around in the streets with nothing to do or to look forward to - a sad sight indeed. The "Camper Population" has an apt way to describe the town: "...the best view of Tennant Creek is through the rear-vision-mirror..."
I have decided to drive as far as Banaka Banka Station, about 100km north of Tennant Creek. This turns out to be quite a nice spot with lovely green lawns, clean toilet facilities, good washing arrangements and, most of all, beautiful clean water. Not surprising actually, once you are aware of the fact that the watersupply is provided by a large natural spring. A good place to re-fill water tanks in my Motorhome too.

I also meet a nice guy called "Nifty" who has a rather large collection of Opals, cut and polished and also for Sale. Nifty and his wife live out of a caravan, next to me, both of them virtual chain smokers and a lovely Poodle puppy. Nifty used to mine Opals at Lightening Ridge but today he just collects stones from the local miner population, has them cut and polished and then sells them on to jewellers. Yet another way to make a living in this country. They are going north to Darwin as well but want to stay a few more days at Banka Banka.

I leave the following morning with the intention to drive to Dunmarra Roadhouse but that looks a bit like a dust bowl, so I just re-fuel and push on Mataranka, another 200km+ further north. I stop at the Resort with Hot Springs in the forest, also quite enjoy floating around in the warm water for a while. Very relaxing I must say and I sleep like a baby right through to about 6 am the following morning.

From Mataranka its only a short 100+km to Katherine. Still Savannah country mixed with scrub, quite a bit of road-kill in Grey Wallabies for the first 50kms out of Mataranka. The morning sunlight, not too high over the horizon does light-up the top of the grasses, glistening like and endless expanse of spider webs in the sunlight...

I re-stock my fridge when I get to Katherine and then drive to the Caravan Park I stayed at last year, the same friendly staff as before, the grass around the camp sites even greener than I remember.

That camp spot by the river

Well, the town of Mount Isa was mostly a place to relax. Its an industrial town with copper mining and smelter, its wealth derived from those resources.

View over Mt. Isa

I had my mail directed from Sydney, which I picked up when I left to drive on to Camooweal.

On the way out of town I take a detour to see Lake Moondarra, the water catchment for the town as well as the supply for the industry.
Its a very nice place ochre coloured hills surround this artificial lake, giving beautiful colour contrasts beween the water and the rocky surfaces.

At Lake Moondarra


The Hills surrounding the Lake

When I get to Camooweal, a short distance from the border to the Northern Territory, I re-fuel, then drive out of town to check a camp spot that has been recommended by fellow travelers at Mount Isa. Its a short way down a dirt road and then ends up right along a river, abundant with bird wild life, the water covered with mostly white Lotuses. There are wild ducks, many Whistling Kites (Hawks) constantly circling over the water, large grey coloured Brolgas goos-stepping along the shore, Pelicans and many other kinds of birds that I cannot identify.



Sunrise at the river, a great start to each new day

The place is really peaceful, bird sound all around me, blue sky and its warm with a cool breeze, just splendid to be sitting out in the shade and enjoy.

I have spent 3 days here, enjoying all of it. Tomorrow, it will be further traveling to Barkley Station, about half way to Tennant Creek.

On to Mount Isa

Not a lot to see at Kynuna Roadhouse, but a great sunset that night.

View into the hills from Kynuna Roadhouse


Sunset at Kynuna

The shower facilities turned out to be covered in hundereds of small black beetles crawling all over the shower floor, the shower curtain and all over the toilet. Got the broom and swept out what was on the floor and ran the hot shower to wash down the sink hole what was in the shower cubicle.

In the morning I leave just after 8 am toward Cloncurry. The first 50km or so, its wide flat grasslands still, cattle country, the odd Road Train carrying some to town is passing me.

The terrain gradually changes to more brush by the road and for a some distance the grass is replaced with Spinifex, those soft looking cushions of grass that turn out, on closer inspection to be a really spiky lot that does not invite anyone to come close.

At Cloncurry I put some beer back in my fridge - yes, its getting warmer and I will need to quench my thirst "Bavarian Style" on a more regular basis when I get to my next destination...

Cloncurry turns out to be quite "dead" with all shops, except the booze shop closed, only a few fellow travelers in caravans on the highway. My literature tells me, there are 4500 people living here, but the lady in the grog shop tells me, this would include all people in the whole shire. I believe her. After driving around town and re-fueling I decide to drive on to Mount Isa.

The road to Mt. Isa runs through mountainous terrain with a constant change of view as I travel along. Dramatic rocky outcrops of many shades of colour make for an interesting view as I drive along, so the 120km seem to pass in no time.

When I arrive at Mt. Isa, I book myself into the same caravan park that I stayed at when I came through here last year. Finally lots of fresh water and I give my Motor Home a much needed wash all around, also walk across the road to an open shopping centre to pick up a few bits and pieces.

Catching up, Emerald, Sapphire, Alpha, then on to Barcaldine, Longreach, Winton and today, Kynuna Roadhouse

Quite right , I have been a bit lazy, but what the heck, life-on-the-road is not meant to be stressful. I say that, because I know you will agree...

Coming west from Roma the countryside is mostly Savannah grasslands, cattle country and because of recent rains there is lots of grass instead of the usual dirt that you would see at the end of the dry season. What I find very appealing is the vastness of the country, either side of the highway, thousands of square kilometres, with hardly anything that would restrict your view.




Wide open skies as far as you can see...

Yes, its also much warmer here than it was in the South of Queensland and it looks like I have for now outrun the rain that had been following me from the coast, from Brisbane. So now, I am about 190km south-east of Cloncurry, or as its called by locals "..the 'curry". It is the next largest town with about 4500 residents, so there should be a variety of stores to choose from for my shopping. I have also noticed that the door to my "house" is not sealing properly, with dust entering there when I travel on dirt roads. I will need to go to the hardware store at Cloncurry to buy some sealing tape to help me fix the problem, naturally my food supplies are running a bit low as well...

The names of the town of "Emerald" and the town of "Sapphire " really express what these townships are about, its Minerals, Sapphires, Diamonds and may other precious stones that are found in the area. I spent 2 days at Sapphire, walking along the riverbed fossicking for that huge Sapphire... Needless to say, this big find is still elusive. It was fun anyway for the two days I spent there.


A bit of nostalgia - a grave yard by the highway

Barcaldine is the town where the Australian Labor Party was founded, its interesting and therefore historic because of the Shearers' strike, but I did not spend a lot of time there, instead carried on to Longreach, a town firmly included in Australia's history as in the past the economy of the country was largely based on its export of wool and the production of beef. There are various places to see, one of which is the "Stockman's Hall of Fame" with a museum attached and live shows with a mob of sheep, and some pretty amazing Collie dogs that the stockmen work with, herding sheep or cattle.


The funny side of a Stockman's lot...

I also checked out the "School of the Air" where hundreds of children on cattle stations in the outback receive their education via radio, today via the internet, all of which run from five studios at Longreach. From there I drive to Winton where I spend two days relaxing in the campground behind the local Pub, meeting people and exploring places to go to in the future. Amazing how much information is available from fellow travelers that have been "there" where I may want to go.

A sign in the driveway of the local Pub.

Today I have driven to Kynuna, a roadhouse, about half way to Cloncurry, where I intend to stay tomorrow.

On the road to Kynuna